Historical fencing swords are training blades built for historical European fencing, the modern practice of reconstructing medieval and Renaissance fencing from period treatises. Unlike honed swords, they are made for full-contact training: blunt edges, rounded or flared tips, and a flexible blade that bends on point work instead of injuring your partner. This collection covers steel feders, blunt trainers, and synthetic wasters for every stage of practice.
The main types of historical fencing training swords
- Feder: the classic steel training longsword, with a widened base (the schilt) and a thin, flexible blade. The standard tool for competitive longsword training.
- Blunt trainer: a sword-weight blade with a rounded edge, used for drilling technique and controlled training.
- Synthetic waster: a nylon or polypropylene sword, safe and affordable, ideal for beginners and warm-ups.
Why flex and safety matter
The defining safety feature of a historical fencing sword is tip flexibility. A good steel feder tip should flex noticeably during point work, absorbing the force so the energy bends the blade rather than driving into your training partner. Edges are left blunt, typically 1.5 to 2.5 mm (0.06 to 0.1 in) thick, to spread impact. This is why you should never train with a honed blade from our forged steel swords range, those are made for edge work, not contact.
Steel feder vs synthetic waster
| Feature | Steel feder | Synthetic waster |
|---|---|---|
| Feel | Realistic weight and bind | Lighter, less authentic |
| Safety | Requires full protective gear | Forgiving, good for beginners |
| Cost | Higher | Budget-friendly |
| Best for | Tournament and advanced drilling | Learning fundamentals and warm-ups |
Choosing your historical fencing sword
Beginners should start with a synthetic waster to learn the guards and edge work safely, then move to a steel feder once footwork and control are solid. Match the length and balance to your height and discipline, whether you study the longsword systems of Johannes Liechtenauer and Fiore dei Liberi, sword and buckler, or the arming sword. Always pair steel training with a fencing mask, gloves, and a padded jacket.
Caring for your historical fencing sword
Steel feders need a light film of oil and dry storage to prevent rust, and their edges should be checked for burrs after hard training and filed smooth. Synthetic wasters need almost no care beyond a wipe-down. Every historical fencing sword ships free worldwide with duties covered and a 30-day return window.
Frequently asked questions
What is a historical fencing sword?
A historical fencing sword is a training blade for Historical European Martial Arts, built for safe full-contact training. It has blunt edges, a rounded or flared tip, and a flexible blade that bends during point work, unlike honed swords.
What is a feder?
A feder is the classic steel training longsword used in historical fencing. It has a widened base called a schilt and a thin, flexible blade whose tip bends during point work to protect your training partner.
Can I use a honed sword for edge work practice and drills?
No. Reenactment requires a blunt, flexible training sword. Honed hand-forged swords are made for edge work and are dangerous in contact drills. Always use a feder, blunt trainer, or synthetic waster with proper protective gear.
Should a beginner start with steel or a synthetic sword?
Beginners should start with a synthetic waster in nylon or polypropylene. It is safe, affordable, and ideal for learning guards, edge work, and footwork before moving up to a steel feder.
How flexible should a historical fencing feder be?
A good steel feder should flex noticeably at the tip during point work, absorbing the force so the blade bends rather than driving into your partner. Blunt edges are typically 1.5 to 2.5 mm (0.06 to 0.1 in) thick.
Do you ship historical fencing swords worldwide?
Yes. All historical fencing swords ship free worldwide with import duties and taxes covered, backed by a 30-day return window and a limited lifetime warranty.