High-carbon vs. spring steel
High-carbon steel (1060/1095) takes a keen edge and is ideal for cutting practice and display pieces.
Spring steel (5160/9260) is tougher and more flexible — the go-to for HEMA sparring and hard use. If in doubt, spring steel is the safer all-rounder.
Why full-tang matters
The tang is the part of the blade that runs into the handle. A true full-tang — one continuous piece of steel from tip to pommel — is what separates a real weapon from a wall-hanger.
Every sword we sell is full-tang. Rat-tail tangs snap under stress; we don't sell them.
Match the blade to how you'll use it
A well-balanced sword feels lighter than it is and moves where you want it. Collectors value historical accuracy and finish; practitioners want a forward point of balance and durability.
Tell us how you'll use it and we'll recommend the right blade.
Keep your blade in fighting shape
A few habits keep a good sword performing — and looking — its best for decades.
Oil the blade
Wipe down and apply a thin coat of mineral or blade oil after handling to prevent rust.
Store it dry
Keep the sword in a dry place, ideally out of the scabbard long-term to avoid trapped moisture.
Sharpen with care
Maintain the edge with a whetstone or send it to a pro — never a bench grinder.
Common buying questions
The quick answers most first-time buyers ask us.
Which steel should a beginner choose?
Spring steel (5160/9260). It's tough, forgiving and handles both cutting and light sparring — the best all-round starting point.
Can I use these for HEMA sparring?
Yes — our spring-steel, full-tang blades are balanced and stress-tested for drills and sparring. For steel-on-steel bouting always use blunt trainers and proper protective gear.
How do I stop my sword from rusting?
Keep it dry, wipe off fingerprints, and apply a thin layer of blade oil after each handling. Stored properly, a carbon-steel blade will last generations.